In our version of this Tuscan classic, we perform an easy bit of butchering that results in a moister roast that's simple to carve (see Butcher's Note). You can follow this recipe using a boneless loin pork roast placed on a roasting rack, although the results aren't quite the same. The beauty of this dish is that it is good both hot and, later in the week, sliced even thinner and served cool. We like it with white beans and a sautéed leafy green vegetable such as kale, Swiss chard, or spinach, all drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil.

Butcher's Note: For this recipe, you begin with a bone-in center-cut pork roast, separate the rack of bones from it, and then, once seasoned, tie the two pieces together curved side up. (You can ask your butcher to remove the ribs for you.) Strapping the ribs on backward provides a protective "rack" to elevate the meat above the roasting pan and minimize moisture loss during cooking. The bone also adds to the drippings for the pan sauce. At the end of cooking, the ribs are simply untied and removed, and the tender meat is easily sliced to ideal thinness. The bones are great to gnaw on. 'What might appear to be an elaborate boning and tying process is really very simple. For a treat, order high-quality heirloom pork from us; its flavor and tenderness make a big difference in this dish.

Wine Note: Though boldly flavored on the outside with herbs and garlic, this pork loin roast still presents, in the end, a very delicate mouthful of pork. Although most of the Sangiovese-based Tuscan wine favorites would work quite well with this classic dish, some are better than others. It is not the particular flavors of these wines that matter; it's their relative weights and textures. Among the many subregions of Chianti itself, we found that the regular, normcile bottlings harmonize best. These are medium- to medium-full-bodied wines with warmly tart black cherry flavors; their tannins offer support and no more. Wines like this should go down without a catch; bigger wines will breathe too much of their alcoholic fire into the delicate pork. From Chianti country, the modest scale and easy drinkability of Badia a Coltibuono's Chianti "Cetamura" is just right. For entertaining, the richer refinement of the Castello di Ama Chianti Classico heightens the experience without hogging the stage. Thinking American? From the North Fork of Long Island, the medium weight and polish of the Schneider Vineyards Cabernet Franc would make a great pair with the richly herbed Tuscan-style pork.