Celestino is famous for his heart-shape ravioli. When he prepares them at special events, the crowds go wild. Make your own pasta using Celestino's recipe and your crowd will go wild too. Swiss chard adds a distinctive color and flavor to the ricotta filling.

Place the flour and salt on a wooden pastry board or in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Break the eggs into the well and add the olive oil. With a fork, beat the eggs and oil, gradually drawing the flour from the edge of the well and incorporating it into the egg mixture to form a dough that can be gathered into a ball. Transfer to a floured board if in a bowl.

Knead the dough for 5 to 10 minutes, working in extra flour as necessary, until it is no longer sticky. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let rest in the refrigerator for about 2 hours.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and roll it out with a pasta machine (see Note) or rolling pin to the desired thickness. Dough can be cut into fettuccine, tagliolini, or lasagna widths, or used as flat sheets to make ravioli.

Note: Set the rollers at the widest opening. Divide the dough into 4 parts for easier handling. Working with 1 part at a time, flatten the dough with the palm of your hand into a thick strip no wider than the machine. Dust it lightly with flour and crank it through the machine. Fold it in half or thirds, press it down with your fingertips, dust with flour, turn it 90 degrees (a quarter-turn) and run it through the machine again. Repeat this process 3 or 4 more times, dusting with flour, until the dough is smooth, elastic, and no longer sticky. Now the dough is ready to stretch into a long sheet.

Set the machine to the next opening, bringing the rollers closer together, and run the dough through. This time, do not fold or turn the dough. Set the rollers another notch closer and run the dough through again. Continue rolling the dough, through a smaller opening each time, stopping just before the next-to-narrowest setting. (The dough strip will become very long, so allow ample work space, or cut the dough into shorter sheets as you go along.)

For stuffed pasta, follow the directions for the ravioli hearts, using the pasta sheets while they are still moist. Keep the sheets covered until ready to use. For noodles, let the pasta dry for about 15 minutes before cutting, depending on the temperature and humidity of the kitchen.

Combine the ricotta, eggs, and Parmesan in a large bowl. Mix in the chard. Set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the sage leaves and sauté until golden, about 2 minutes. Add the cream and salt. Simmer until sauce is reduced to three quarters of its original volume, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and whisk until the butter dissolves. Keep warm.