To make the cauliflower: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a large gratin dish or 4 individual gratin dishes. In a medium saucepan of lightly salted boiling water, cook the cauliflower florets for 4 minutes and drain. In a medium stainless-steel bowl, combine the cream, mascarpone, wine, and herbs. Put the hot cauliflower into the cream mixture, stir to coat, and season with salt and pepper. Pour into the prepared gratin dish or dishes. Bake until tender when pierced with a knife and heated through, 15 to 20 minutes. In a small bowl, mix the panko or bread crumbs, parsley, and olive oil. Remove the gratin from the oven and sprinkle the mixture on top. (At this point, you can cool, cover, and refrigerate the gratin for up to 1 day.) Increase the oven temperature to 450°F and return the gratin to the oven until the mixture starts to bubble and brown on top, 5 to 10 minutes. If the gratin is not browning, either move it to a rack closer to the top of the oven or put it under a broiler for a minute or so. Set aside until serving.

To grill the asparagus: Light a fire in a charcoal grill. If the asparagus spears are thick, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and blanch the spears for 2 minutes; drain and pat dry. Toss the asparagus spears with the olive oil, salt, and pepper until well coated. Place on the grill at a right angle to the grill grids or place in a grill basket. Grill, turning frequently, until marked and crisp-tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Set aside in a warm place.

To make the truffle butter: In a small bowl, mash all the ingredients together until well combined. Set aside at room temperature for up to 30 minutes, or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day. Bring back to room temperature before using.

To grill the lobster: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and plunge in the lobsters, head first. Cook for 4 minutes. Remove from the pot. Split the lobsters in half lengthwise. Clean out the pink coral and tomalley in the head area and any intestines running down the back. Brush the lobster meat with the truffle butter and season with salt and pepper. Grill, flesh-side up, until opaque and cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately.

To serve, place a scoop of the cauliflower gratin in the center of each of 4 warmed plates with the asparagus (tips pointing in the same direction) placed alongside. Top with 2 lobster halves, each head half facing the same direction, leaning slightly.

Improvisations: Colossal or jumbo prawns could stand in for lobster. Technically speaking, all the elements of this dish are very "mix 'n match"; you could serve the lobster with a potato gratin, or you could serve the cauliflower gratin with a grilled piece of filet mignon, and the asparagus can go with virtually anything. The combination of all three together, however, is unique and worth trying at least once. Don't make this dish without the white truffle oil, because you will lose the very essence of the recipe.

Advance Prep: The cauliflower for the gratin can be blanched 1 day ahead. Or, you can cook the whole gratin 1 day ahead and brown it just before serving. The asparagus too, if they are thick, can be blanched 1 day ahead. The butter can be frozen, then thawed for brushing on the lobster. The lobster should be grilled right before serving, but you can partially cook it earlier in the day.

Simplifying: If you're not up for grilling, broil the lobster, or roast it in a preheated 500°F oven for 5 to 7 minutes. The asparagus can also be oven-roasted or sautéed in a little olive oil over medium-high heat until tender and lightly browned. Instead of preparing a whole gratin, serve the cauliflower steamed and lightly drizzled with butter and seasonings.

Wine Notes: Nothing can match the luxurious flavors of lobster and truffles except a bottle of fabulous white Burgundy. Certainly a Chardonnay from California or Australia would match the heaviness of the dish, but take the opportunity to get to know the wines of Etienne Sauzet, a first-rate domaine in the Côte d'Or. They're powerful and graceful, not unlike the avid rugby player who makes them. They age beautifully, so if a premier or Grand Cru '90 or '92 is available, now is the time.