Grand Aioli

Preheat oven to 375°F. If beet greens are attached, remove all but 1/2 inch of the stems (so as not to pierce the beet) and reserve for another use. Put beets in a baking dish with 1/4 cup water. Cover tightly and bake until a small knife slips in easily, about 45 minutes. Cool slightly, then peel. Keep red beets separate from yellow beets to preserve their colors.

Trim the leeks, removing the hairy roots without cutting into the base. Slit each leek partway, then wash under cold running water to remove dirt that may be trapped between the layers. If the turnips are small and thin skinned, there is no need to peel them; if they are not small, peel them. Trim the filet beans. Trim the artichokes (see note at bottom).

Bring 2 large pots of salted water to a boil. (Using 2 pots saves time.) Use these pots to boil the leeks, squashes, turnips, potatoes and filet beans. Boil each vegetable separately, removing it to a dish towel to drain as soon as it is just done. (Remember that they will continue to cook as they cool.) You do not have to change the water between vegetables; just lift each vegetable out with tongs or a slotted spoon and reuse the boiling water.

Cook the artichokes in a separate pot. I prefer to steam them upside down on artichoke stands over a small amount of boiling salted water, but you can also boil them in a large amount of salted water. Cook until the bottom is easily pierced with a knife. Drain upside down on a dish towel. When cool, quarter and scrape out the hairy choke.

Put eggs in a small saucepan with cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Let stand 8 minutes, then drain and run under cold water until cool. Peel eggs. Set aside.

To make the aioli: In a mortar, pound garlic to a paste with a large pinch of salt. In a bowl, whisk egg yolks well, then begin adding oil drop by drop, whisking constantly, as for mayonnaise. When sauce thickens and clearly forms an emulsion, you can add the oil faster. When you have whisked in all the oil, whisk in the garlic. Season to taste with salt and lemon juice.

To serve, cut the beets and turnips in halves, quarters or thick wedges, depending on size. Cut round zucchini in wedges, long zucchini in thick rounds. Cut each leek in half lengthwise. Cut potatoes in halves or in large chunks. Quarter eggs. Arrange all the cooked vegetables, including artichokes and beans, the tomatoes and the eggs attractively on a serving platter. Scatter olives over all. Serve with aioli.