Roast cauliflower at high heat, and it becomes a completely different vegetable. The sugars caramelize, the flavor deepens, and the cauliflower takes on a lovely nutty character. Prepared this way, I've surprised many parents as their kids clamor for more. It's great roasted with just olive oil, but toss in a few spices and it really stands out as an ideal complement for lamb chops, pork roast, or the everyday roast chicken.

Sometimes I make my own spice mixture when I have the time, but more often I just reach for store-bought Madras curry powder or garam masala. You can use yellow mustard seeds, but try to find the black ones that show up all the time in Indian cooking. They're really worth seeking out, for the distinctive aroma and crunch they add to this dish. When we were living in Los Angeles, I once bought 5 pounds of brown mustard seeds at an Indian restaurant supply store. Anthony thought I was nuts, but the color is so beautiful, I kept them displayed in a big glass jar.