1. In a large mixing bowl with a whisk or in the work bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the yeast, sugar, lemon zest, salt, and 2 cups of the flour. In a small saucepan, combine the milk, water, and butter or oil and heat until just hot. Stir to melt the butter, if used. Let cool to 120°.

2. Add the warm milk mixture, almond extract, and eggs to the dry mixture and beat hard until creamy, 1 minute. Add the remaining flour, 1/2 cup at a time, until a soft dough is formed that just clears the sides of the bowl, switching to a wooden spoon as necessary if making by hand.

3. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, springy, and soft, about 2 minutes, adding only 1 tablespoon flour at a time as necessary to prevent sticking. Transfer to a greased deep container, turn once to coat the top, and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Deflate the dough and let rise again until doubled in bulk, 1 to 1 1/4 hours.

4. While the dough is rising, make the almond crust. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine the sugar cubes, almonds, and cinnamon. Process until the sugar and almonds are finely chopped. (If using coarse sugar, it can still be processed with the almonds.) Do not overprocess. Set aside.

5. Turn out the dough onto the work surface and divide it into 3 equal portions. To shape the braided wreath, using your palms, roll each portion into a rope about 30 inches long. Lay the ropes side by side and braid together firmly. Place in a loose ring on a greased or parchment-lined baking sheet or 15-inch pizza pan. Press the ends together, sealing with a few drops of water, if necessary. Loosely cover with plastic wrap and let rise until almost doubled in bulk, no more than 40 minutes. Twenty minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 350°.

6. Brush the entire surface of the wreath with the egg glaze. Sprinkle with the almond crust mixture. Bake the bread in the center of the preheated oven until it is browned and sounds hollow when tapped, 40 to 45 minutes. Using a spatula, remove to a rack to cool completely before serving in small slices.