Tortilla Soup with Pasilla Chilies, Fresh Cheese, and Avocado

6 corn tortillas, halved
Canola oil for frying
4 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
1 small white onion, sliced
2 pasilla chilies or 1 ancho chile, stemmed, seeded, and torn into several pieces
One 15-ounce can whole tomatoes in juice, drained, Or 12 ounces tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped
6 cups unsalted chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 large sprig epazote (optional)
1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste
6 ounces queso fresco or other crumbly fresh cheese such as salted pressed farmer's cheese or feta, cut into 1/2-inch cubes; or 6 ounces soft white cheese, such as Chihuahua, quesillo, asadero, or Monterey jack, shredded
1 large avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 large lime, cut into wedges

Here's a recipe, adapted from Mexico - One Plate at a Time, that illustrates why Rick Bayless is not only one of the most popular chefs in America but also one of the most popular cookbook writers. Everyone loves the process of making this soup, from frying the tortillas to adding the condiments. Be sure to look for good cheese - if you can manage homemade chicken stock, you'll begetting very close to the cooking that inspires the Baylesses.

Cut the tortillas vertically into 1/4-inch-thick strips. In a medium saucepan, heat 1/2 inch oil over medium heat until it shimmers. The edge of a tortilla strip inserted in the oil should sizzle vigorously. Add half the tortilla strips. Stir until they are golden brown and crisp. With a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining tortillas.

Pour off all but a thin coating of hot oil and return the pan to the heat. Add the garlic and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until golden, about 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, press the garlic against the side of the pan to leave behind as much oil as possible, then transfer the garlic to a blender or food processor.

Add the chile pieces to the hot pan. Turn quickly as they fry, toast, and release a delicious aroma, about 30 seconds in all. (Too much frying/toasting will make them bitter.) Transfer to paper towels to drain. Set the pan aside.

Add the tomatoes to the blender or food processor and process to a smooth purèe. If using fresh tomatoes, strain the purèe to get rid of the pieces of tomato skin. Heat the same saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the tomato purèee and stir- until it has thickened to the consistency of tomato paste, about 10 minutes. Add the stock and epazote (if you like), bring to a boil, then partially cover and gently simmer over medium to medium-low heat for 30 minutes. Add the salt.

To serve, divide the cheese and avocado among warmed soup bowls. Ladle a portion of the broth into each bowl, top with a portion of the tortilla strips, and crumble on a little of the toasted chilies. Offer wedges of lime.

Serves 6 as a first course, 4 as a Main Course