Spicy food and creamy sauces present a challenge to many full-bodied wines, but light, fresh wines can dance nimbly along the tightrope of richly flavored dishes. Frascati is a perfect example. Its delicate overtones of fruit and mildly crisp finish set up your palate for the next bite. Est! Est!! Est!!! is a little more acidic, ending with a light bite that also nicely supplies the required refreshment.

In a large bowl, lightly beat the eggs. Add the Parmesan, parsley, chili, and pepper and mix together well. Set aside.

In a skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic cloves and cook until golden and fragrant, a few minutes. Remove and discard the garlic cloves. Add the pancetta to the skillet and cook until it just begins to brown. Add the wine, bring to a boil, and boil for about 2 minutes, stirring and scraping the pan bottom to loosen the browned bits. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Bring a large pot filled with salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook until al dente, about 11 minutes. Drain and immediately add to the egg mixture, stirring vigorously to coat the pasta completely and create a silky sauce.

Quickly reheat the pancetta and wine, add to the pasta, and stir well again. Divide among warmed shallow bowls and serve immediately.

SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE, OR 8 AS A FIRST COURSE
RECOMMENDED WINE: Frascati
ALTERNATIVE WINE: Est! Est!! Est!!!