The saltiness of pancetta delivers a wonderful contrast to the sweetness of the shellfish in this quick and easy dish. The shrimp or scallops can also be grilled instead of sautéed (see variation). Serve atop a bed of salad greens, wilted spinach, or cooked white beans or lentils.

Cut each pancetta slice-6 slices if using jumbo shrimp or scallops and 8 slices if using large shrimp-in half crosswise so you have a total of 12 or 16 pieces. Wrap each shrimp or scallop in a half slice of pancetta. Sprinkle with pepper.

In a large sauté pan, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp or scallops and sauté quickly, turning once, until the shrimp turn pink, or the scallops firm up a bit and take on some color, and the pancetta becomes golden, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to warmed individual plates.

Pour the Cognac into the pan over medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer and deglaze the pan, dislodging any browned bits stuck to the pan bottom.

Spoon the pan juices over the shellfish. Serve at once with lemon wedges.

Grilled or Broiled Variation: Prepare a medium-hot fire in a grill or preheat a broiler. Soak 4 bamboo skewers in water to cover for about 30 minutes, then drain. Wrap the shrimp or scallops with pancetta as directed and thread onto the skewers. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with pepper. Grill the seafood directly over the fire, or under the preheated broiler, turning once, until the shrimp turn pink, or the scallops firm up a bit and take on some color, and the pancetta becomes golden, 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Serve with lemon wedges.

Serves 6 to 8