Preheat the oven to 450°F. To make the fonduta, in a bowl, combine the cheese and milk, cover, and let rest in the refrigerator for 4 hours. The cheese will absorb some of the milk.

Snap off the tough ends of the asparagus spears, and then tern the ends so they are even. If the spears are very thick, peel the bottom half with a vegetable peeler. Pour the olive oil into a shallow bowl large enough to accommodate the length of the spears, and roll the spears in the oil. Arrange the spears in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, allowing a little space between them. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Place the asparagus in the oven and roast until tender, 7 to 10 minutes; the timing will depend on the thickness of the spears.

Meanwhile, to finish the fonduta, melt the butter in the top of a double boiler over simmering water, Add the cheese and milk and stir in the egg yolks. Cook gently, stirring often, until the cheese is melted and creamy, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the truffle oil, if you like it.

Remove the asparagus from the oven and arrange on individual plates, Spoon the fonduta over the tips and serve immediately.

Variations: Instead of roasting the asparagus spears, you can sauté them in 3 tablespoons unsalted butter in a nonstick pan over low heat, turning them often, until they are lightly browned and tender, about 8 minutes. You can also forgo the fonduta. Top the asparagus with grated Parmesan cheese in its place.

Wine: Asparagus is often a tough match with wine, but fortunately the Italians have some wines that will work here. Tocai Friulano is one. You can also try a white blend from Friuli. Look for wines from the Collio, Colli Orientali, Grave, or Isonzo appellation and from such producers as Movia, Venica & Venica, Schioppetto, and Scarbolo.