4-rib standing rib roast, about 6 pounds
1 lemon
salt and freshty ground pepper
1 cup dry red wine
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/3 cup prepared horseradish, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
freshly ground white pepper

Remove the meat from the refrigerator 2 hours before you plan to begin cooking it. Bringing it to room temperature ensures more even cooking.

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place the meat, bone-side down, in a roasting pan. Cut the lemon in half and rub the cut side of each half all over the beef. Season the roast with salt and pepper.

Roast the meat for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350°F and continue to roast for 70 minutes more. To test for doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the roast away from the bone; it should register 125°F. The meat will be rare in the center and medium-rare to medium near the ends. (Note: If you are cooking a roast that is larger than 4 pounds, adjust the cooking time accordingly.)

Remove the meat from the oven, transfer it to a cutting board or platter, and tent it loosely with aluminum foil. Let rest for at least 15 minutes or for up to 45 minutes before carving. (Increase the oven temperature to 450°F to bake the Yorkshire Pudding Puffs while the roast rests).

While the meat is resting, make the sauce: pour off all but a few tablespoons of fat from the roasting pan. Reserve the fat you have poured off if making the Yorkshire pudding puffs. Place the roasting pan on the stove top over high heat. Add the wine and cook, stirring up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, until the liquid reduces by half. Reduce the heat to low, stir in the thyme, and let the sauce sit for a minute. Pour into a warmed gravy boat or sauce pitcher.

To serve, slice the roast: cut the first slice close to the bone, between the ribs. The second slice will be boneless. Pass the sauce at the table.

Horseradish is a classic accompaniment to roast beef. In this recipe, I combine horseradish with whipped cream to complement the horseradish's flavor and texture and tone down its piquancy for the children. It looks pretty on the table, too. Look for prepared horseradish in your market's refrigerated section; it will be fresher than the one you'll find in the condiment aisle.

In a bowl, using a whisk or an electric mixer set on medium speed, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Stir in the horseradish, lemon zest, and white pepper to taste. Spoon into a bowl and pass at the table.