This dish from Bordeaux incorporates four of the region's favorite ingredients: lamb, garlic, wild mushrooms, and wine. This is traditionally made with a rack of lamb, which would make it perhaps more elegant but certainly no more tasty than the loin chops we suggest here. The two-chop serving size makes this a light main course. If you are hungrier, up the number of chops to six, for three per diner; there is enough sauce in the recipe as is. (Or use six to eight rib lamb chops - just be sure to reduce the cooking time somewhat, as they are thinner.) Although we call for the more easily obtainable dried mushrooms here, if you can get fresh porcini (cèpes), we urge you to try them. You will want to add a little more butter when sautéing fresh mushrooms.

Wine Note: The dish is as good with white Bordeaux as it is with red. For white, look for the wines of Graves and Pessac-Leognan, local favorites known around the world. For a crisper white Bordeaux, try Château Graville-Lacoste and, for a richer wine, the widely available Château La Louvière. For the reds, stay with medium-bodied, Merlot-inflected wines such as the simple but lovely wine from Château Lacroix de Bellevue in the appellation Lalande-de-Pomerol that stood out at our tasting. Any number of similar wines from the Fronsac, Canon-Fronsac as well as medium-weight Pomerol and St. Emilion wines, would be equally fine. Let your merchant be your guide. From beyond Bordeaux, pour a Washington State Merlot. We especially like the Canoe Ridge Winery Merlot from the Columbia Valley.

1. Rinse the dried mushrooms in two changes of water, draining each time. Place the mushrooms in a small bowl with just enough warm water to cover and let soak until softened, about 30 minutes. Lift the mushrooms from the bowl and squeeze gently to remove some of the moisture. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine mesh sieve. Reserve 1/4 cup of the soaking liquid and set the mushrooms aside.

2. In a small saucepan, melt 1 1/2 tablespoons of the butter over medium-low heat and cook the shallot until softened, about 4 minutes.

3. Add the wine, thyme, and a generous 1/4 teaspoon salt. Raise the heat to medium; simmer until the liquid is reduced to 2 tablespoons. Stir in the crème fraîche and all but 1 clove of the garlic. Return to a bare simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is completely tender, 30 to 40 minutes.

4. Transfer the garlic mixture to a blender and puree until very smooth, about 1 minute. Return the garlic cream to the saucepan. It should be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon but still pour easily. If still a little thin, simmer briefly to thicken. Set aside, covered to keep warm.

5. In a small skillet, melt the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Crush the remaining clove of garlic and add it to the skillet. Add the mushrooms and sauté, stirring constantly, until golden at the edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce the heat if they threaten to burn. Stir in the reserved soaking liquid and salt lightly. Let the liquid nearly evaporate. Transfer to a small bowl, cover, and keep warm.

6. Salt the chops generously on both sides. Wipe out the skillet and heat over medium-high heat. Add the oil and when hot, cook the chops until nicely browned on both sides, 3 to 3 1/2 minutes per side for medium-rare.

7. Put 2 chops in the center of each of 2 plates. Reheat the garlic cream if necessary and spoon it around the chops. Scatter the mushrooms over and around the chops. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

Make-Ahead Tip: You can make the garlic cream up to 8 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.