To roast hazelnuts for this recipe (which we adapted from one favored by Oregon's Hazelnut Marketing Board), spread shelled nuts in a shallow pan and put in a 275° oven for 20 to 30 minutes, until the skins crack. Rub the hazelnuts with a rough cloth to remove skins.

1. For cream cheese filling, combine cream cheese and sugar in a mixing bowl and beat with an electric mixer until smooth. Add egg, lemon juice, and vanilla and continue beating until well mixed. Use a spatula to fold in hazelnuts. Cover and refrigerate.

2. For brownie batter, melt chocolate morsels and butter in the top of a double boiler over simmering water over medium heat. Remove from heat and set aside.

3. Sift together flour, cocoa, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.

4. Preheat oven to 350°. Combine sugar, eggs, and vanilla in a large mixing bowl and beat with an electric mixer until smooth and lemon-colored, about 2 minutes. Beat in melted-chocolate mixture, then add flour mixture and continue beating until mixture is smooth. Fold in hazelnuts with a spatula.

5. Spread half the chocolate batter into an 8" square baking pan. Spread cream cheese filling over chocolate. Gently spread remaining brownie batter over cream cheese layer. Pull a spatula through layers to create a marbleized effect. Bake for about 40 minutes. Allow to cool before cutting into 2" squares.

Hazelnuts Are Filberts Hazelnuts are grown commercially in only four regions of the world: Turkey, Italy, Spain, and Oregon. In the last of these, where they are raised in orchards scattered through the Willamette Valley, in the western portion of the state, they are also known as filberts. Only about 3 percent of the world's hazelnut crop comes from Oregon, but that 3 percent is widely considered to be the best of the best-larger, healthier, tastier hazelnuts than anybody else's. This is no surprise to Oregonians, used to being able to grow everything from perfect Christmas trees and worldclass iris bulbs to pungent spearmint and voluptuous blackberries. Oregonians take their hazelnuts for granted-by whatever name.