Grilled Corn on the Cob with Flavored Butters

Carefully pull the husks back on each ear, but don't tear them off. Pull out the corn silk and discard. Pull the husks back over each ear, and tie securely near the tip with a torn strip of corn husk or kitchen string. Soak the prepared ears of corn in a basin of water for 1 hour. This will keep the husks from burning on the grill.

Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill. Place the corn on the grill rack over medium-low fire and grill, turning often, until cooked, 15 to 20 minutes. To check for doneness, remove 1 ear, pull back the husk, and pierce a kernel with the tip of a knife. The juice should be milky.

Remove from the grill and serve immediately with one or more of the flavored butters.

Tarragon butter

In a bowl, using a handheld blender or fork, combine 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter (at room temperature), 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon, 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, and 1/4 teaspoon salt until blended. Spoon the butter onto a piece of plastic wrap, and shape it into a small sausage. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until firm. For longer storage, wrap a second time in foil. To use as a sauce, slice off a round and let it melt on the hot food. To use as a spread, let the butter warm to room temperature. Use on hot vegetables, grilled chicken, and fish. Makes 1/2 cup.

Roasted garlic butter

Preheat an oven to 450°F. Remove the papery outer layers from a large garlic head. Cut off about 1/2 inch from the top of the head and discard. Place the head in the center of a 10-inch square of aluminum foil. Drizzle with olive oil. Wrap the garlic in the foil and twist the top to seal. Bake until the pulp is soft, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, let cool, and squeeze the pulp from the garlic cloves into a small bowl. Add 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter (at room temperature), 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Proceed as directed in the Tarragon Butter recipe. This is delicious on everything. Makes 1/2 cup.

Chile lime butter

Remove the seeds from a small ancho Chile. (Ancho chiles can be found in Latin American markets and well-stocked supermarkets.) Wear rubber gloves when handling any chiles because the volatile oils can cause a burning sensation on your skin. Place the chiles in warm water to cover for 5 minutes to soften. Drain, and mince almost to a paste. (This can leave a stubborn stain on your cutting board, so wash the board immediately.) Reserve 1/2 teaspoon paste for the butter. Discard the rest, or wrap tightly and freeze for another recipe.

In a small bowl, using a handheld blender or fork, combine 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter (at room temperature), the grated zest of 1 lime, and the reserved minced Chile until blended. (For more spice, add a dash of cayenne pepper.) Proceed as directed in the Tarragon Butter recipe. This is delicious on corn, grilled fish, and chicken. Makes 1/2 cup.