Rub the inside of a fondue pot or heavy pot with the garlic clove. Leave the garlic in the pot. Pour in the Apremont and kirsch and bring to a boil over medium heat on the stove top. Gradually incorporate the grated Gruyère de Comté, Gruyère de Beaufort, Appenzeller, and Morbier cheeses, stirring constantly in a figure-8 pattern with a wooden spoon.

When the cheeses are entirely melted, add the Roquefort, mustard, and nutmeg. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir to mix, taking care not to let the fondue boil.

To serve, set the fondue pot on the table over a fondue burner and let diners spear pieces of bread with fondue forks and plunge them into the fondue. Remember to stir the fondue in a figure-8 pattern even when dipping your fork, to keep it from separating or sticking to the bottom.

When the fondue is nearly finished, clean up the pot with this edible trick: Put in a few pieces of bread, add the egg and a good portion of kirsch, if desired, and place over high heat back on the stove top. Stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture thickens; this will help get the cheese off the pot. Remove from the heat when the mixture is lightly brown, and let diners pick out the pieces of bread with their fondue forks.

Variations - Mushrooms and Ham Add dried mushrooms, such as porcini or morels, along with the wine when you start. Roll your bread in a strip of ham or prosciutto before plunging your fork into the fondue, or serve a spread of fine cold cuts side-by-side with the fondue.