On Martha's Vineyard, we don't need Mark Kurlansky's first-rate book on cod to tell us that cod is the staff of life. It is the totemic fish in this area of the country, where it turns up as salt cod, called bacalhau by the Portuguese; as fresh cod; and as the baby cod known in these parts as scrod. A lean, delicately flavored fish with flaky white flesh, cod in its dried form was a standby for sailors and a mainstay of the slave trade. In that state, it journeyed to many parts of the hemisphere, including Jamaica. There it is used to make the chewy fritters known as stamp-and-go.

The fritters are not the soft, doughy bacalaitos of Portuguese tradition, but rather a consistent ball of dough, with a light flavoring of cod, a bit of heat, and a crunchy crust. This version is milder than the Jamaican one, but can be heated up to Caribbean hot, hot, hot with the exchange of a habanero for the jalapeno. These fritters, like other Jamaican foods, came to the Vineyard with the Jamaicans and were quickly recognized as kin to the codfish fritters traditionally served in New England.

Place the salt cod in a bowl with cold water to cover and soak overnight in the refrigerator. Drain and place in a saucepan with fresh cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium heat, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook for 15 minutes, or until the fish is tender. Drain the cod, let cool, and then break up into small flakes, discarding any skin and bones.

Pour the oil to a depth of about 4 inches into a heavy saucepan or Dutch oven and heat to 375°F on a deep-frying thermometer. While the oil is heating, place the flaked fish, scallions, chile, tomato, flour, and baking powder in a large bowl. Add just enough of the water to make a thick, sticky batter. Stir to mix well.

When the oil is ready, drop the batter by the teaspoonful into the hot oil, taking care not to crowd the pan. Fry, turning once, for 3 to minutes, or until golden. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining batter. Keep each batch hot in a low oven until all the fritters are cooked, then serve immediately with the hot sauce. The fritters must be eaten hot. When they cool, they turn as leaden as cannonballs.